Ocean Awareness / Beach Safety / Surf Etiquette

MONDAY TOPIC = SAFETY

Why do we wave watch?

It is important to watch the waves for over a period of time before you enter the ocean because waves change all the time.  You want to see if there are “sets” of waves that are bigger or closer in intervals than the average waves.  Small, calm waves could soon be followed by stronger waves that are 3 to 5 feet bigger.  Wave watching will help you decide when it is a good time to paddle out.

What is a set?

A set is a group of waves that are 3 to 5 feet bigger and come at closer intervals than the average waves for that day.  A set occurs when waves from different storm systems converge on a beach.  Sets can occur from 15 to 30 minutes apart.

What does “outside” and “inside” mean?

The outside is past the break and the inside is where the waves are breaking.

What do you do when we yell “outside”?

that means a set is coming and to paddle out past the break if you are close enough to get over it, or if no one is around you, get off your board and dive under wave if no one is around to get hit by your board, or lye on the end of the board and ride it in on your tummy but never panic, they will pass and smaller waves will come after.

What is a rip tide?

A rip tide is a strong current that can carry even the best swimmers out into the ocean.  A rip tide happens when the water from incoming waves collects on the beach because of gravity.  This water then rips back into the ocean like a fast moving river.  Experienced ocean swimmers can recognize a rip tide: a narrow, cloudy stream of water running out to sea.  If you are caught in a rip tide, relax and begin swimming parallel to the shore.  Once you are out of the rip tide’s current, you can safely swim to shore.  It will not take you under.  Comfort them by saying they are mellow in our area and not common.

Why is sunscreen so important?

Applying a water proof sunscreen every hour or so is essential to prevent sunburn.  Sunburns are not only painful, they cause much damage to hour skin.  Sunburns are caused by the invisible, ultra violet rays of the sun, which can reach your skin even on a cloudy day.  Always wear sunscreen and reapply when you get out of the water.

What do the different colored flags on a beach mean?

These flags are our first indication of the kind of surf that day. 

Green = SAFE to go surfing.

Yellow = CAUTION because of rip tides or large sets of waves

Red = DANGER you may enter the water at your own risk, though only excellent surfers should consider going out.

How and when should you paddle out?

Hold the front of the board, walk out and pick up over the wave until you are knee deep in water then jump on board and paddle straight out.  Be sure the board is not parallel to the beach or you are not holding it in front of you because a wave will push it back and knock you down.  Demonstrate paddling out:  When paddling out push yourself up when the white wash comes and turtle if the white wash or wave is too big.  Always wait for a set to go by before paddling out.

Who is your instructor?
We will split up in groups and you will have an instructor to go to at all times.  It easier to paddle to your instructor if you drift down the beach.  If you need help paddling out then wait your turn on the beach and your instructor will take you out in the rotation.  You can leave your leash off so you can play in the sand while you wait.

What if we drift too far?
Sometimes the current will make us all drift down the beach.  An instructor will let us all know if we drift down too far.  We will all have to get out and drag our boards back in front of the tent.

What if I am still to scared to surf?
Take out a boogie board or swim for a little to get comfortable with the waves first and then surf.  When you are ready don't be afraid when the instructor pulls you out.  Hold on tight to the board when we go under or over waves to get you out.  We know what we are doing and will protect you.

What if I see dolphins?
Dolphins are a good thing.  They protect us.  You will also see seals which will not harm you so don’t be alarmed.

Paddling to the Buoy
Paddling to the buoy is optional.  It is just for good paddling practice and when we get to the buoy sometimes we will put all the boards together and run across them.  It is a lot of fun.

TUESDAY TOPIC:  ENVIRONMENTAL SCIENCE & POLLUTION then FUN CONTEST TRICKS

Why are our beaches so important?

Beaches, wetlands, marshes, coral reefs and rocky intertidal zones are habitats to countless numbers of plants and animals that are essential to the well-being of our planet.  We need to preserve and protect these areas for all of us.  It is a very diverse environment that benefits all mankind.

What is marine debris?

These are the plastics, oils, pesticides and other wastes that find their way into the ocean though runoff in storm drains, down rivers and left behind by people at the beach.  Many of these items contaminate and pollute the waters that we swim and surf in everyday.  We need to prevent these items from reaching the ocean to have a healthier and safer ocean for all living things, both plants and animals. 

Why is water quality so important to all of us?

We need to continue to preserve our oceans by preventing pesticides, insecticides, animal wastes and heavy metals from flowing into our oceans in order to maintain pure, clean, healthy water for all inhabitants of the sea, including swimmers and surfers.  Surfers at the “canary in the coal mine.”  They tend to be the first people to develop ear infections, sore throats and other illnesses that tell us the oceans are not safe to enter.

What is erosion?

The beach is a dynamic, ever-changing interface with the ocean.  Rivers and the surrounding watershed supply our beaches with the sand that we enjoy.  We need to maintain this natural movement of sand flowing from the rivers so that we can keep our beaches in their natural state.  We have to be sure not to encroach on this important part of our shoreline.  We can’t build sea walls, jetties, homes, and any other construction that interferes with this natural movement of sand.

How do you do the contest tricks?  Use contest sheet and demonstrate so they can practice for all fun contest on Friday

WEDNESDAY TOPIC:  TIDES/WAVES

What causes tides?

The gravitational pull of the sun, moon and earth causes the ocean to move in patterns known as tides.

How does gravity affect tides?

As the sun, moon and the earth rotate and orbit in the solar system, they change positions.  When the sun, the earth and the moon are lined up, extremely high and extremely low tides occur.

Tidal range is measured in feet.  In California, tides range from approximately -1.5ft. for the lowest low tide to approximately 7 ft. for the highest high tide.  A tide chart will list the two high and two low tides for each day.

Why do tides change?

The moon takes approximately 28 days to revolve around the earth once.  This causes the tides to change about 1 hour each day.

What is a tsunami?

This is commonly called a “tidal wave” and is created by an earthquake in the ocean.  A mass or large block of earth shifts on the ocean floor and creates a drop in the seal level that generates a large wave.  This wave can travel the length of our coastline and cause serious damage to costal areas.

WAVES

What causes waves?

The wind blowing over the ocean toward land creates a swell that will travel toward land and eventually crash on the beach.  The strength of the swell is affected by three factors: the velocity (the strength of the wind), the duration (the length of the time that the wind blows) and the fetch (the distance the wind blows).  The well travels in a circular motion toward the beach; sand slopes upward and eventually causes the wave to topple over or break when it reaches the beach.

How does the beach affect wave shape?

Some beaches have a very steep slope, which causes a shore to break, and some beaches have very gradual slope that causes the waves to break slowly and roll into the beach.

How do we measure a wave?

The height of a wave is measured by the vertical distance between the trough, or low point between two waves, and the crest, the highest point of the wave.  The length of a wave is the horizontal distance from the crest of one wave to the crest of the next wave.  The time between tow waves is called the wave period, generally 12 to 16 seconds.  Surfers in Southern California measure a wave height from the front of the wave; though in Hawaii and other parts of the world the wave height is measured from the back of the wave.   So a 5-foot wave in Hawaii might be called a 10-foot wave in California.

What is the difference between a ground swell and a wind swell?

A ground swell is a train of waves that forms from a large storm, and then travels a great distance.  For example, a ground swell might from off the coast of New Zealand and eventually hit the beaches of Southern California.  A wind swell is a local condition created by an on-shore wind.  Our wind swell generally comes off the west each day, but can be affected by a south swell from Mexico.

THURSDAY TOPIC ETIQUETTE-

What is the “line up”?

The “line up” is the spot where everyone in the water waits for the sets to roll in.  The one closest to the peak has the right of way.

What is “the peak”?

The peak is the top of the wave that begins to break first

What is “dropping in”?

Dropping in is when a surfer takes off on a wave that another surfer is already on.  Unless it is a beach break where one surfer can take off going left and the other going right, you NEVER want to do it.

How do I know which is left and which is right?

The direction is always the direction you are going when you are riding the wave.

What if I get caught on the inside and in others way?

Always try to stay clear of others, but if you are on the inside trying to get back out, paddle into the white water so you are not in the way of the surfer on the wave.

What if a wave is about to crash on me?

Hold onto your board!  Ask your instructor to teach you how to duck dive or turtle roll the board so you do not ditch it.  It is dangerous to you and others if you ditch or let go of your board.

FRIDAY TOPIC:  SURF CONTEST

Respect others and share waves.  Think safety at all times.  Surf only where there is a lifeguard on duty and be sure to look for any warning signs if any on the beach.  See signals above.

Lastly, respect the beach.  Don’t be a barney and leave trash behind.   Be sure to clean up after yourself and set an example for others by picking up trash you come across as you leave the beach.

Thank you!  Now lets have a Perfect Day!!!